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Goa's cashew-apple spirit: funky, fruity, and fiercely local.
Goa, India, 17th century
The Portuguese carried the cashew tree from Brazil to Goa in the 1500s, and distilling its fruit followed within a century; feni became the state's everyday spirit. It earned India's first geographical indication for a liquor in 2009.
Ripe cashew apples are stomped or pressed, the juice ferments for a few days, and the wash is distilled two or three times in clay or copper pots. Coconut feni is made the same way from palm toddy.
Overripe tropical fruit and a pungent, sulfurous funk up front, then a clean, faintly sweet cane-like finish. Divisive neat, transformative in a sour.
Did you know
The first pass off the still, urrack, is a lighter seasonal spirit Goans drink with soda through the cashew harvest; only the final distillation earns the name feni.
Also known as: cashew feni